That’s a peach, hon

We wait and wait and wait.  First comes the false fruit—attractive but mealy and dry.  Then the imports arrive: beautiful and delicious but prohibitively expensive.  Finally—just as students are relishing the last golden moments of summer break, we get stone fruit.  I know that Roald Dahl is English but I can’t help but think he must have been in California in early September when inspiration for James and the Giant Peach hit.  Peaches, nectarines and their varietals are everywhere it seems: luscious, smelling like heaven and cheap!

I my opinion, there are few things more perfect in this world than a beautiful, juicy peach.  They really need no accompaniment.  However.  I really couldn’t resist a recipe I saw on the Cooks Illustrated website for a rustic peach cake (and then of course had to make it again with a little twist).

Like most Cooks Illustrated recipes, this one has a lot of moving parts.  The challenge was to create a cake that didn’t get soggy from the extra juices from the peaches.  In the original recipe, they leave the skin-on.  I decided to remove the skin.  Either way works.  But, if you want an easy way to remove peach skins, just boil a pan of water and drop the peaches in for about 30 seconds.

When you pull them out, the peach skin will slide right-off.  I know, cool huh?

This recipe calls for peach schnapps.  Which of course we had to go out and buy because I don’t think I’ve had peach schnapps since I was…well…probably not old enough to be drinking peach schnapps.  If you stick with me, I’ll give you some alternative options.

So, the first little trick Cooks Illustrated employs is to pre-bake some of the peaches.  Peach chunks get mixed with some schnapps, a little sugar and lemon juice and then baked for about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, peach wedges get the same boozy marinade.

Once out of the oven, the peach chunks are cooled to room temp. and then tossed with panko crumbs.  Again, the idea is to heighten the liquid absorption.

The cake batter is very simple: melted and cooled butter, dark and light sugar, flour, levaning agents and a splash of almond extract.  After a thin layer of batter is spread in the pan, the chunks are added.  Another layer of cakes goes on top.

And the whole things gets topped with the now fairly inebriated peach wedges.  A sprinkle of sugar and the pan goes into the oven.

Once cooked, this simple cake just needs to be un-sprung, cooled and enjoyed.

The integrity of the cake held well for a couple of days.  However, by the third day everything started to get a little mushy.

This is a lovely cake and perfect summer dessert. And not a single crocodile tongue on the ingredient list!

Of course, if you don’t happen to have peach schnapps on hand, you could use whiskey.

And you could skip the whole layering step and just mix the peach chunks into the batter.

And, as long as we are breaking rules, might as well make them into cupcake/muffin form.

Definitely a more portable dessert to take to our friends’ house for an afternoon fete during the long Labor Day Weekend.

Oh, and that leftover peach box?  The Kitchen Gods will thank you.

Summer Peach Cake

Just slightly adapted from Cooks Illustrated, July 1, 2011

Serves 8 to 10

To crush the panko bread crumbs, place them in a zipper-lock bag and smash them with a rolling pin. If you can’t find panko, 1/4 cup of plain, unseasoned bread crumbs can be substituted. Orange liqueur can be substituted for the peach schnapps. If using peak-of-season, farm-fresh peaches, omit the peach schnapps.

Ingredients

  • 2 1/2pounds peaches , pitted and cut into 1/2 inch-thick wedges
  • 5tablespoons peach schnapps
  • 4teaspoons lemon juice
  • 6tablespoons plus 1/3 cup granulated sugar
  • 1cup (5 ounces) all-purpose flour
  • 1 1/4teaspoons baking powder
  • 3/4teaspoon salt
  • 1/2cup packed (3 1/2 ounces) light brown sugar
  • 2 large eggs
  • 8tablespoons unsalted butter , melted and cooled
  • 1/4cup sour cream
  • 1 1/2teaspoons vanilla extract
  • 1/4teaspoon plus 1/8 teaspoon almond extract
  • 1/3cup panko bread crumbs , finely crushed

Instructions

  1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Line rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil and spray with vegetable oil spray. Gently toss 24 peach wedges with 2 tablespoons schnapps, 2 teaspoons lemon juice, and 1 tablespoon granulated sugar in bowl; set aside.
  2. Cut remaining peach wedges crosswise into thirds. Gently toss chunks with remaining 3 tablespoons schnapps, remaining 2 teaspoons lemon juice, and 2 tablespoons granulated sugar in bowl. Spread peach chunks in single layer on prepared sheet and bake until exuded juices begin to thicken and caramelize at edges of sheet, 20 to 25 minutes. Transfer sheet to wire rack and let peaches cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees.
  3. Spray 9-inch springform pan with vegetable oil spray. Whisk flour, baking powder, and salt together in bowl. Whisk brown sugar, 1/3 cup granulated sugar, and eggs together in second bowl until thick and homogeneous, about 45 seconds. Slowly whisk in butter until combined. Add sour cream, vanilla, and 1/4 teaspoon almond extract; whisk until combined. Add flour mixture and whisk until just combined.
  4. Transfer half of batter to prepared pan; using offset spatula, spread batter evenly to pan edges and smooth surface. Sprinkle crushed bread crumbs evenly over cooled peach chunks and gently toss to coat. Arrange peach chunks on batter in even layer, gently pressing peaches into batter. Gently spread remaining batter over peach chunks and smooth top. Arrange reserved peach wedges, slightly overlapped, in ring over surface of cake, placing smaller wedges in center. Stir together remaining 3 tablespoons granulated sugar and remaining 1/8 teaspoon almond extract in small bowl until sugar is moistened. Sprinkle sugar mixture evenly over top of cake.
  5. Bake until center of cake is set and toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, 50 to 60 minutes. Transfer pan to wire rack; cool 5 minutes. Run paring knife around sides of cake to loosen. Remove cake from pan and let cool completely, 2 to 3 hours. Cut into wedges and serve.

Whiskey Variation

  • Replace schnapps with your favorite whiskey (Grand Marnier would also work).  Take a shot for  yourself, proceed as otherwise directed above.

A prophetic snapshot

While visiting my parents in Montana, I made a startling discovery.  Well, now, that’s not really true.  Maybe confirming is a better adjective than startling.  In my mom’s sitting room she has the following picture of me.  I’m guessing I was…two?

Other than demonstrating that I have never been able to pull-off bangs, take a look at my feet.  Why yes, those are black peau de soie pumps I am rocking.  And yes, I probably knew that they were peau de soie even at that tender age.

Let’s match this photo up with a handful of other early indicators.  First: one of my earliest memories was of shopping with my dad.  I must have been very young because I didn’t know my colors yet.  I did however know that I wanted a pair of red Keds. Yes, that specific.   I just didn’t know how to articulate what I wanted (I have a similar memory with an ice cream shop, not knowing how to read and a disastrous run-in with rum raisin).  At some point my father must have gotten frustrated with me and I ended up with a pair of Winnie the Pooh saddle shoes.  I HATED those shoes. Loathed them.

Exhibit number two.  About this time my mom was called into the office at pre-school. My teacher was concerned because I appeared to prefer playing dress-up to  socializing appropriately with the other children.  Didn’t she understand I had to have my outfit just right before venturing into the complicated social structure of seminal friendship?

The thing is, this isn’t something I ever grew out of.  In fact, the examples get more egregious over time.  There is the rather embarrassing admission that during kindergarten I often secretly packed a second outfit to change into when I got to school just in case I didn’t like what my mom had dressed me in (I think she gave up trying to dress me halfway through the year…battles…wars and all).  There was also my early love for all brand-named…it started in, maybe the third grade?  What third grader even cares if they have an alligator on their t-shirt?  Apparently the same one who notices flatware.

Dare I mention the period in  the sixth grade when I wore paper bags on my feet until my parents relented and bought me a pair of Reeboks (little did they know, I would have done more for less).  And can I tell you just how disappointed I was to have to come of age during the grunge era?  Smells Like Teen Spirit may have changed the world; it certainly didn’t do anything for fashion.

Returning to the photo above, it makes me feel just a little better that I’ve always been this way.  That even before I could count to 10, I felt it was important to look nice while doing it.   Because here is the deal.  I make my profession in a world where caring about cashmere is seen as an intellectual infirmity.  So maybe, just maybe, the fact that I entered the world predisposed to the aesthetic forgives me (just a little) of my materialistic tendencies.

Incidently, my mom also has a picture of my brother at the same age on an adjacent shelf.  In it, he’s wearing cowboy boots.  And nothing else.  So, I guess it could be worse.

Lunchbox Cookies

Oh, the start of a new school year.  The smell of freshly sharpened pencils and PeeChee folders. New classes.  New teachers.  New friends. And most importantly (at least for me), new school clothes.

And then there is school lunch.  If I’d planned a little better, I could have and should have put together some research and thoughtful commentary on the subject.  As a former K-14 consultant, I’ve seen a lot of bad and ugly when it comes to school cafeterias and am very interested in the politics of what our youth eat for lunch.   Especially in Los Angeles.

Alas, I made vanilla sugar instead. But, more on that later.

I was one of those kids whose mom made her lunch with homemade cookies and sandwiches with real cheese on whole wheat bread.  And I didn’t appreciate it one bit.  Sorry mom.  All I wanted when I was a kid were Chips Ahoy cookies and white Wonder Bread.  My brother and I also shared a strange fascination with Twinkies, in our household, the most forbidden fruit of them all.

And now I’d give anything to have someone, anyone, make me a brown bag lunch with real cheese, good bread and a homemade cookie.  Yeah, yeah…youth wasted on the young and all that.

So, in this spirit, I’ve got a cookie to share with you.  And, I think it would make a pretty perfect addition to anyone’s lunchbox or after-school snack.  The recipe is simple, needs no refrigeration ahead of time and with a couple of little details can go from great to fantastic.

Here is detail number one: vanilla sugar.  Now, if you happen to be rolling in dough (the green kind), you can buy vanilla sugar at specialty stores.  However, if you are just a little patient, you can also make it very easily.  Here is how.  You know the hull from a vanilla bean?  That thing that is left after you scrape-out the seeds?  Just add it to a couple of cups of granulated or superfine sugar.  And then wait a week or two.  The result will be extra special sugar with a slight vanilla taste and pronounced vanilla aroma. Perfect for simple recipes like this one.  I make vanilla sugar every time I use a vanilla bean.  It makes me feel a little less guilty about having to dip into my retirement whenever I buy a jar of vanilla beans.

Now for detail number two: better butter.  Good ingredients always make a difference but I have an admission to make.  If the recipe has lots of other stronger flavors, I usually just buy whatever unsalted butter is on sale.  However, like the vanilla sugar, when you have a recipe with simple ingredients, you want them to be good.

The special butter and special sugar get a really good beating.  Then an egg is added.

And finally, sour cream and flour are folded-in.

The dough will be stiff but soft.

Scoop the dough onto lined-baking sheets.  Add some sugar or sanding crystals if you’d like.  And there you go.

Just like starting fourth grade all over again.

What?  I missed a week?  You noticed?  Okay, here is the deal on last week’s post.  It’s written but needs some revising.  It’s about a food item that I happen to have lots of stories about and I can’t quite seem to pick one.  We’ll get there though.

Vanilla Sugar

  • 1 Vanilla bean, devoid of seeds (this is code for used vanilla bean)
  • 2 C granulated sugar (superfine will work too)

Combine ingredients and store in a sealed container or heavy ziplock bag.

Special Sugar Cookies

adapted from Everyday Food, 2007

Ingredients

  • 2 C all-purpose flour, sifted
  • 1 tsp baking powder
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 8 TBS unsalted butter, room temp
  • 1 1/2 C sugar (or vanilla sugar) plus some for sprinkling
  • 1 large egg
  • 1 tsp vanilla
  • 1/4 C sour cream

Directions

  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees, place one rack in upper third of oven, one in lower third.  Line baking sheets with parchment paper.
  2. In medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder and salt.
  3. Using a standing mixer or electric hand-mixer, beat together butter and sugar until light and fluffy (I let it run at least 5 minutes).  Add-in egg and vanilla, beat to combine.
  4. With mixer on low, add in flour and sour cream beginning with half of the flour and alternating.  Mix until just combined.
  5. Drop  mounds of dough (I used a 1/8 C scoop but go smaller or larger as desired, just remember to adjust cooking time) onto baking sheets leaving 3 inches in between each.  Sprinkle with sugar.  Bake until edges of cookies are firm and bottoms are slightly browned (10-15 minutes for 1/8C size).
  6. Transfer to rack to cool.

Big Sky Buns

After I left for college, my parents began spending their summers in Big Sky, Montana.  Next my brother decided to attend college in Montana (much to the chagrin of our California residency status).  After that, summers turned into four or five months.  And then a couple of years ago they (my parents…my brother never did come back) sold their house in San Diego and moved to Montana full-time.  This means that three-quarters of my immediate family live in a place far, far away.

Which also means visiting is no longer as easy as hopping on the 405 freeway and heading South.  Lucky for TD and I,  we got to spend a week with them earlier this month.

There are lots of places that don’t quite live up to their names.  Los Angeles is just about the best example I can think of.  But, step off the plane in Montana and you immediately understand why it’s called Big Sky Country.  Exhibit number 1: the view off of the backside of my parent’s property in the gloaming.

Or perhaps from a slightly different angle.  One morning I came upstairs to see that during the night, someone had installed a sculpture of Bambi right in the middle of the picture window below.  Then the sculpture moved…which was even weirder…until I realized that it was an actual fawn who was soon joined by it’s brother/sister as they happily bounced down the hill to meet their mother waiting in the tall grasses below.

Speaking of wildlife.  Here is the view from their front porch.  It took me a couple of days to get used to the sounds of horses kvetching with one another between nibbles of tall grass.  I had no idea they made so much noise.

In the months leading up to our trip, my mother and I volleyed back and forth ideas for recipes and meal plans.  The notion that the  hostess apple did not fall far from the tree has never been more concerning our own family tree. Just ask TD.   After much consideration we picked a couple of recipes to make for this special edition (and next week’s) of the Misanthropic Hostess goes on the road.

My parents’ live at about 5500 feet elevation so my mom thought it would be fun to experiment with yeast.  In the form a cinnamon rolls.  We looked through several recipe books and finally decided on one from the 2010 Sunset Cookbook.  Yeast is added to warm water and left to sit and reconstitute (think sea monkeys).

Then flour, sugar, a bit of butter and salt are added and kneaded.  Here is where we came upon our first high altitude adjustment.  At sea level, the flour amount was perfect.  At over 5,000 feet I needed to add in about a 1/2 C of additional flour (one TBS at a time).  Even at this much additional flour, the dough was probably stickier than the original recipe intended.  But, I happen to think a stickier yeast dough yields a more tender product.  We weren’t making pizza dough after all.

We then let the dough proof in a warm corner until it doubled in size.

Once gently punched down, the dough was divided into two pieces and each was rolled-out to a bout 10X17 inches.

A layer of soft butter covered the entire rectangle followed by cinnamon and sugar.

After this, it was time to add the roll to the cinnamon (see what I did there?).

Roll from the long end.

Then cut into 6 or 12 equal pieces.  In the photo below, we’re trying the six-piece method.  I also tried it with twelve and much preferred the results of the latter.

Why yes, this was the latter.  Once place on the baking sheet, the dough gets a second proofing.

Into the oven for just under half and hour and not only does your house smell good enough to attract Hansel, Gretel, all three pigs  and the Big Bad Wolf himself, but you also get beautiful golden-brown pinwheels of heaven.

Oh, but we’re not done yet.  A simple confectioner’s sugar, vanilla and water icing tops the whole lot.

It’s probably not appropriate to mention pornography in the same post as my parents but dude.

This is some serious food porn.

Big Sky Cinnamon Buns

Adapted from Grandma’s Carroll’s Cinnamon Rolls, The Sunset Cookbook (2010, Oxmoor House)

Ingredients

  • 1 1/4 C milk (use what you have in the fridge)
  • 1 package (2 1/4) active dry yeast
  • 1 1/4 C plus 3 TBS granulated sugar
  • 3/4 C plus 2 TBS butter at room temp
  • 1 1/2 tsp salt
  • 5 1/4 C flour plus more if needed
  • 1/4 C cinnamon
  • 3 C powdered sugar
  • 2 tsp vanilla

Preparation

  1. In the bowl of a standing mixer, add yeast to 1 C of warm water.  Let stand for 5 minutes.
  2. Over low heat, warm milk in a saucepan.
  3. Whisk together 3 TBS sugar, 3 1/2 C of the flour and salt.
  4. Add flour mixture, milk and 2 TBS butter to rested yeast and water mixture.  Mix until dough begins to look slightly elastic (will still be really wet and sticky).
  5. Switch to dough hook, add in remaining flour and mix 5-7 minutes, until the dough begins to pull away from the sides.  As a note–in high altitude, I had to add another 1/2 C of flour.  At sea level the recipe did not need to be adjusted.
  6. Place dough in a clean, oiled bowl and either cover with plastic wrap or a towel and allow to double in size (1-2 hours).
  7. While dough is proofing combined cinnamon and remaining sugar.
  8. Divide dough in half placing first half on to a floured work surface.  Carefully roll-out dough until it is roughly a 10X16 inch rectangle.  Be sure to lift dough as you are working so that it does not stick to the board.
  9. Spread half of the remaining butter evenly over rolled-out dough.
  10. Sprinkle half of the cinnamon-sugar mixture over buttered dough.
  11. Working with the long-end, carefully roll dough into a log.
  12. Divide log into 12 equal disks and place on to a 10X16 (half-sheet) parchment-lined baking sheet so that they fill up half the sheet.
  13. Repeat with second half of dough.  There will be some spaces in between each roll.  This is fine as the dough will expand during the second proofing and baking process.
  14. Wrap baking sheet tightly and let rise again (1-1 1/2 hours).
  15. Preheat oven to 350 degrees and place rack in the middle of the oven.
  16. Unwrap baking sheet and bake rolls until slightly brown on top (about 25 minutes).
  17. Remove rolls from oven and let sit for 10 minutes.
  18. While rolls are resting, combine powdered sugar, vanilla and enough water for desired texture of frosting.
  19. Frost rolls.

Notes:

  • Finished rolls can be wrapped in plastic and frozen.  Just zap in microwave to reheat.
  • This would be a great brunch dish.  The evening before, complete the recipe up to the second proofing.  Once the rolls have risen, place still covered in fridge.  On the morning of, remove from fridge an hour before baking and then bake as directed.

Nutella Cookies

Why yes, I do sit around thinking about ways to incorporate Nutella into unsuspecting recipes.  Would you expect any less?

Actually, I originally planned to tackle Pierre Herme’s infamous Nutella tart for this post.  However, as I was reading through the recipe one last time I realized that the finished product would have to be refrigerated.  Generally this isn’t a big deal but. Refrigerated items don’t travel well to work.  Also not usually a big deal but.  TD was going to be out of town leaving me all alone with what is effectively Misanthropic Hostess kryptonite.  As I stood there with the bag of hazelnuts in my hand I had a vision of TD returning from travel to find me passed-out in the kitchen with an empty tart pan and hazelnut crumbs as evidence. Now that would be embarrassing.

So, I made a quick U-turn and decided to use the same ingredients for cookies.  There are quite a few recipes out there for cookies with Nutella as a main ingredient.  But, I couldn’t be bothered to look them up and so came up with my own.

It starts with toasting some hazelnuts.

Now, if you can, get them without the shells.  If not, once the nuts are toasted you will need to remove the hulls.  To do this, gently rub each one (yes, each one) between the folds of a kitchen towel.  Trust me, it’s worth it. Once naked, the nuts get a good chop.

Then of course there is the Nutella.  For the longest time I had the willpower to limit my Nutella intake to Europe or stays in Sofitel hotels.  We’d go to Europe (doesn’t matter which country), I’d eat the stuff everyday while there and then valiantly ignore it when in the U.S. (unless staying at an aforementioned Sofitel).   Alas, like my first kiss, I can’t even remember how the domestic seal was broken.  All I can tell you is that in our household, we go through jars of Nutella  much faster than we consume jars of peanut butter.  And.  I’m the only one who eats it.  Oops.

Oh.  Want to hear a secret about Nutella?  Even though it says not to, try putting it in the fridge.  Instant Nutella fudge. And, it takes longer to eat because you have to sort of scrape it gently with a spoon to get any leverage.  Oh wait.  Did I just say that out loud?

Here is the deal.  Butter, sugar and Nutella gets creamed together.  Then dry ingredients are added along with the chopped hazelnuts and chopped chocolate (chocolate chips would work just fine of course).

The result: Oooh Nutella-la!

Nutella Cookies

The Misanthropic Hostess

Ingredients

  • 16 TBS butter (2 sticks)
  • 3/4 C Nutella
  • 2/3 C granulated or superfine sugar
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1 large egg plus one egg yolk
  • 2 tsp vanilla
  • 2 2/3 C all purpose flour
  • 1 C toasted hazelnuts
  • 1 C chopped chocolate or chocolate chips

Preparation

  1. Toast hazelnuts in a 350 degree oven for 15 to 20 minutes.  While still warm, remove hulls from nuts using a clean dishcloth.  Once cool, give nuts a rough chop.
  2. In a standing mixer, cream butter, sugar and salt.
  3. Add in Nutella and beat until fluffy (2-3 minutes).
  4. Add in egg, combine, then add-in yolk and vanilla.
  5. Mix-in flour until just incorporated.
  6. Fold in nuts and chocolate pieces.
  7. Refrigerate for at least an hour (I like to do it over night).
  8. Preheat oven to 375 degrees, line baking sheets with parchment paper.
  9. Spoon or scoop-out dough to desired size and place on cookie sheets.  Bake for 6-10 minutes.

Watermelon Salsa

Yes.  You are in the right place.

Nope, we’re not turning on the oven today.

Just chopping up some colorful treats.

Then throwing them together.

For a surprising take on salsa.  Just add pita chips!

Watermelon Salsa

Ingredients

  • 1 English cucumber, seeds removed and cubed
  • 2-3 C seedless watermelon, cubed
  • 1 large or two small shallots minced (purple onion would also work)
  • 3 TBS (or to taste) fresh mint, chopped
  • 1/2-1 C feta cheese, crumbled or cubed
  • Salt, pepper, olive oil and a mild vinegar to taste
  • Other tasty add-ins
  • Olives, tomatoes, basil, the kitchen sink

Preparation

  • As you can tell, this is one of those, “there isn’t really a recipe recipes.”  Oh, I’m sure you could find a recipe for watermelon salsa if you looked, but, I’ve never looked. Once everything is cut, combine, gently toss and let marinate for several hours.  Yep…that’s pretty much it.

I found my thrill…

It’s okay, I’m still thinking about Mr. Darcy as well.

I wasn’t kidding about the scones.  And because I certainly haven’t had enough of them, I’m bringing back the blueberries.  Well, dried blueberries.  Those of you scone purists may be happier with this scone recipe than last week’s frosted version.  Also a Dorie Greenspan  (slight) adaptation, this simple base would work well with any kind of dried fruit (the original calls for currents).

The method and ingredients are very similar: cold butter, flour, a little sugar, a little cream and an egg.

Plus the fruit.

Gently shape into a couple of wheels and cut.

Not one to leave a good thing alone, I couldn’t keep myself from adding a sprinkle of turbinado sugar for a little crunch.  You could easily go plain or use regular granulated sugar.

All lined-up and read to go.

I think this recipe took maybe 10 minutes to throw together.  And then another 20 in the oven.  With a recipe this quick, why would you ever buy them from the bakery again?

Cream Scones

Dorie Greenspan, Baking from my home to yours, Houghton Mifflin Company

Ingredients

  • 1 large egg
  • 2/3 C cold heavy cream
  • 2 C all-purpose flour
  • 2 TBS sugar
  • 1 TBS baking powder
  • 1/4 tsp salt
  • 5 TBS unsalted butter, cut into small pieces and chilled
  • 3/4 C moist, plump currants (or blueberries or raisins)
  • Turbinado or granulated sugar for topping if desired

Procedure

  • Position rack in the center of the oven, preheat to 400 degrees.
  • Line baking sheet with parchment.
  • Stir the egg and cream together.
  • Whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in a large bowl.
  • Drop-in butter and using your fingertips, rub butter into dry ingredients until the mixture is pebbly (everything from oatmeal flake to pea sized is just fine according to Dorie).
  • Pour the egg and cream over the dry ingredients and stir with a fork until the dough just comes together (it will be sticky).
  • Stir in the currents and gently knead the dough while still in the bowl (8-10 times).
  • Divide dough in half, shape into disks and turn-out onto a lightly floured work surface.
  • Cut each disk into six wedges.  If desired, sprinkle sugar over each scone.
  • Places scones on baking sheet and bake for 20-22 minutes or until the tops are golden brown.
  • Let cool on rack.

Even Mr. Collins couldn’t ruin these: maple pecan oat scones

One of my goals with this blog is to use it as an excuse to try new things.  Expand my culinary arsenal.  Master some mad kitchen skills.  Oh?  You got it the first time? Good.  In this spirit, the next couple of weeks will be all about scones.  Now, I’m a big fan of the idea of the scone.  Just the thought of this crumbly, slightly sweet treat brings to mind images of delicate china cups, green moors kissed by a slowly tumbling fog and Mr. Darcy. Oooooh,  Mr. Darcy (no TD, not Mr. Willoughby…I keep explaining to you, he’s a bad guy…and he’s from a different story).

In reality though, it never occurred to me to try making my own until I discovered that Starbucks appears discontinued my favorite scone (at least in my neck of the woods). Apparently novelty isn’t motivation enough for me…scarcity plays a role as well.  Which brings us to my take on the pecan maple oat scone.

Dorie Greenspan does a fantastic job of laying-out her scone philosophy in her book Baking, From my Home to Yours. Here is the gist: cold butter, all ingredients ready to go in advance, touch everything as little as possible. Understood.

Very cold cubed butter is added to a sifted mixture of sugar, flour, old fashioned oats (not sifted of course) and some levaning agents.

Then, with clean fingertips or a pastry blender (I used my fingers), the butter gets gently incorporated into the dry ingredients until you’ve got a sort of sandy mixture with little peas (while apt, not a particularly palatable description).

Cream and an egg are added and the dough gets a couple of turns until it just comes together.  I then added about a cup of roughly chopped candied pecans.

The tender dough then gets turned-out onto a floured surface and shaped into a disk.

Then cut into six wedges (I realize eight wedges is easier and will do this next time).

Into the oven for about 20 minutes where they expanded slightly and turned golden brown.

Once cooled, I topped these babies with a maple frosting.  Dorie doesn’t use a frosting in the original recipe but, I have to admit, my favorite part of the discontinued Starbucks version was the frosting.  I know, making scones with frosting is sort of like saying you are a wine drinker who prefers white zinfandel.  Whatever.

Mmmm…almost as good as Starbucks. And, if served for tea,  they just might get you a clandestine but very appreciative cut of the eyes from Mr. Darcy.

Oh, and one more thing.  More of an observation on a coincidence.  Unlike Mr. Darcy’s affection for Ms. Bennett, I’ve made no secret of my own love for the Smitten Kitchen.  I love her like a fat boy loves cake.  Which is why I feel the need to point out that she also has a scone recipe up this week.  What is funny is that this isn’t the first time we’ve had similar posts within a week.  More like the third or fourth.  It would be one thing if each time the recipes had recently appeared in the popular press or periodicals. Nope.  Another entirely if it weren’t for the fact that I suspect she, like me, often cooks and photographs a recipe weeks in advance of posting.  So really what I’m trying to say here is that I swear I’m not copying!   Not to go all quantum physics on you all (doing so would first require that  understand the topic), but I do sort of believe that just maybe perhaps there is a baking stream of consciousness and that at least when it comes to pastry, there is some rhyme and reason to the chaos.

Maple Pecan Oat Scones

Adapted from Oatmeal Nutmeg Scones, by Dorie Greenspan, Baking, From my home to yours, Houghton Mifflin Company

Ingredients

  • 1 large egg
  • 1/2 C cold buttermilk
  • 1 2/3 C all-purpose flour
  • 1 1/3 C old fashioned oats (not quick oats)
  • 1/3 C sugar
  • 1 TBS baking powder
  • 1/2 tsp baking soda
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1 stick plus 2 TBS (10 TBS) cold unsalted butter, cult into small pieces–leave in fridge until ready to use
  • 1 C roughly chopped pecans (I used candied because it’s what I had–use whatever you have)

Preparation

Preheat oven to 400 degrees, placing rack in center.  Line bake sheet with parchment

  1. Stir egg and buttermilk together, set aside.
  2. Sift flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt into oats. Mix together dry ingredients.
  3. Drop-in butter and, using your fingers,  toss to coat the pieces of butter.  Working with your fingertips or pastry blender, cut and rub the butter into the dry ingredients until the mixture is pebbly and sandy.
  4. Pour the egg and buttermilk mixture over the dry ingredients and stir with a fork until just blended and the dough comes together. Add-in pecans.  Then, gently need the dough by hand 8-10 times.
  5. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface, divide in half and gently shape each piece into a 5-inch disk.  Cut each disk into 6 wedges and place on baking sheet (I had to do some creative placement to get all 12 on the sheet with distance in between.  You could easily do in two batches, just be sure to refrigerate the second batch while the first is cooking).  Dorie notes that at this point, you can freeze the dough–when working from frozen scones, don’t bother defrosting, just add two minutes to the cooking time.
  6. Bake for 20-22 minutes or until the tops are golden brown and firmish.  Transfer to a rack to cool completely.

for frosting

  • 2 C confectioner’s sugar
  • 1/2 C maple syrup
  • 1/2 tsp maple extract
  • water to consistency

Preparation

  1. Using a hand mixer (or by hand), add syrups into sugar and beat until combined.  Add-in extract and then slowly add-in water until you reach your desired consistency.  Top scones cooled scones.

Vive l’bleuets!

Yes.  We are still talking about blueberries.  And happy Bastille Day while we are at it.

I’m always game to try a new cookie recipe and so set this one aside last fall after it appeared in September’s Bon Appetit Magazine to rave reviews.  Who knows why it took me this long to get to it.

The recipe is for blueberry and cream cookies from Momofuko Milk Bar in New York.  It begins with a sort of, well, milk-crumb-streusel concoction.  Now, I know that Christina Tosi (Chef at the Milk Bar) pretty much walks on pastry…but I also think she has a thing for dried milk powder.  To date I’ve tried two of her recipes and both call for this rather elusive ingredient.  After scouring several specialty stores, I finally found it at a Bristol Farms (ironically, the closest grocery store to my house and of course was the last place I looked).   Provided the bakery’s success however, I’m inclined to start adding milk powder to all kinds of things…

So, milk powder, sugar, a little cornstarch, some smelted butter and a couple other ingredients get blended together and then baked.

Until it looks like crumbs.  Don’t let the lack of lack of visual remarkability fool you.  This stuff is kind of cool and definitely makes what is to come more interesting.

The dough-base for these cookies is suspiciously like chocolate chip cookie dough.  Only milk scrabble and beautiful dried blueberries (or bleuets if you are French) (or baluberries if you live at our house) are substituted-in for chocolate chips.

The dough is very thick and with its five cups of flour, the recipe is huge.  I halved it here and had plenty of yield.

Out of the oven these cookies are attractive.  However, the fun real fun begins when someone bites into one, tastes the streusel and says…’what is that ingredient’ (you know, in the good way).

Of course I have to admit, these would still be really good…and a lot less time consuming should the milk scrapple be omitted.

Blueberry and Cream Cookies

As printed in Bon Appetit Magazine (September 2010) by Christina Tosi, Momofuku Milk Bar, New York New York

for streusel

Ingredients

  • 3/4 cup nonfat dry milk powder
  • 1/2 cup all purpose flour
  • 3 tablespoons sugar
  • 2 tablespoons cornstarch
  • 3/4 teaspoon coarse kosher salt
  • 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted

Preparation

  • Preheat oven to 275°F. Line large rimmed baking sheet with parchment. Combine milk powder, flour, sugar, cornstarch, and coarse salt in medium bowl; toss to mix evenly. Add butter; stir with fork until clusters form. Spread mixture evenly on prepared sheet. Bake until crumbs are dry and crumbly but still pale, about 10 minutes. Cool Milk Crumbs completely on sheet. DO AHEAD Can be made 1 week ahead. Store in airtight container at room temperature.

for cookies

Ingredients

  • 2 cups (4 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
  • 1 1/2 cups sugar
  • 1 1/2 cups plus 2 tablespoons (packed) golden brown sugar
  • 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons light corn syrup
  • 2 large eggs
  • 5 1/4 cups all purpose flour
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon coarse kosher salt
  • 1 1/2 cups Milk Crumbs (click for recipe)
  • 1 1/2 cups dried blueberries

Special Equipment

Stand mixer with paddle attachment.

Preparation

  • Combine butter, both sugars, and corn syrup in large bowl of stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment. Beat on medium-high speed until fluffy and pale, occasionally scraping down sides of bowl, about 3 minutes. Add eggs; beat on medium-high speed until mixture is very pale and sugar is completely dissolved, about 10 minutes. Add flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt; beat on low speed just until blended, occasionally scraping down sides of bowl. Add Milk Crumbs; mix on low speed just until incorporated. Remove bowl from mixer. Stir in blueberries just until evenly distributed (dough will be very sticky).
  • Using 1/4-cup ice cream scoop for each cookie, drop dough onto 2 large rimmed baking sheets. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 24 hours. DO AHEAD Can be made 2 days ahead. Keep chilled until baking time.
  • Position 1 rack in top third and 1 rack in bottom third of oven and preheat to 375°F. Line 2 large (18×12-inch) rimmed baking sheets with parchment. Transfer 6 chilled dough scoops to each sheet, spacing at least 4 inches apart (cookies will spread). Bake cookies, 2 sheets at a time, until golden, reversing sheets halfway through baking, 20 to 22 minutes total. Repeat with remaining chilled dough, cooling and relining sheets between batches. Transfer cookies to racks; cool completely. DO AHEAD Can be made 3 days ahead. Store in airtight containers at room temperature.

Baluberry Muffins

In general, words and phrases that have been purposely spelled incorrectly (usually as a means of kitschifying said word or term) earn a blanket boycott from me.  I don’t care how good the pancakes at the Koffee Kart in Manhattan Beach happen to be.  I refuse to step foot inside the place.

There is one exception. Embarrassing as it is to admit (and it’s okay, you can laugh), in our household we call blueberries baluberries.  After the Balu the cat.  You know, the Kitchen God (who happens to be sitting in my lap as I type this post).

I told you it was okay to laugh!

Anyhow.  I wait all year for baluberry season when they finally become inexpensive enough to cook with.  And one of my favorite recipes using this delicious little berry is Martha Stewart’s blueberry recipe from her Baking Handbook.  I know Martha’s recipes don’t always work.  But trust me, this one does and with some minor adjustments here, I think I’ve made it perfect.  Or, at the very least, baluberry worthy.

We start with a secret technique that will keep the berries from migrating to the bottom of the muffin tin.  After you’ve washed and allowed the berries to dry, add them to a collander and dust a couple of teaspoons of flour over them shaking the sieve so that all the berries get an even coat.

My twist on the recipe: buttermilk and lemon zest (and kitty whispers).

Once the muffins are in the oven, it’s nappy time.

And it what seems like no-time, you’ve got a batch of pretty amazing baluberry muffins.

See!  Evenly distributed berries.  Cool or what?

No.  I’m not serious about the kitty whispers.  Come on!

Baluberry Muffins

Adapted from Martha Stewart’s Baking Handbook (Clarkson Potter  Publishers, New York)

Makes 1 dozen

Ingredients

  • 8 TBS (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temp.
  • 2 C all purpose flour
  • 1 1/2 tsp baking powder
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • zest of one lemon
  • 2 C fresh blueberries
  • 1 C sugar
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2 tsp vanilla
  • 1/2 C buttermilk (mild would work just fine)

Preparation

  1. Preheat oven to 375, place rack in center of oven.  Either fill muffin pan with liners or butter and flour each muffin mold.
  2. Whisk together flour, baking powder and salt.  Working over the bowl with a sieve or collander, toss the blueberries with 1 1/2 tsp flour.  Set blueberries aside in a separate bowl.
  3. In a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment or using a hand mixer, cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy (about 3 minutes).
  4. Add-in the eggs one-at-a time, mix-in vanilla and lemon zest.
  5. With the mixer on low, add in flour mixture and mix until flour is just combined.
  6. Add-in milk and combine.
  7. With a spatula, gently mix-in blueberries.  Divide batter into pan.
  8. Bake until an inserted toothpick comes-out clean (about 30 minutes).