Higher Challah

Somewhere along the way I saw a funny meme that said something like,  ‘well, we finally found out what happens if you take sports away from men, they replace it with baking’ (like most of the stories I retell, the original was better written and funnier in delivery. Mea culpa ).  Setting aside gender stereotypes, it does seem true that in this locked-down, stay at home culture, people (not just the menfolk) have been baking a lot of bread.

This post is more about a technique I learned than an actual recipe (though I’ve linked to a recipe that I like below).  But, since I’ve seen lots of homegrown challah on Instagram, I thought I’d share.

And, if you are considering trying your hand at bread, challah is a great dough for it.  It takes a little time, but, the enriched dough is very easy to work with and forgiving to novice braiders.

So, on to the technique.  Most challah consists of a three-to-many stranded braid. While lovely in any iteration, apparently a critique is that the bread spreads horizontally, not vertically.  To be honest, I’m not real sure why this might be an issue except for maybe making a sandwich?

But anyway, Cook’s Illustrated came up with a solution (of course they did): stack your braids.   That’s right, make a big braid on the bottom.  And then, top if with a smaller friend.

The ratio you’ll want to use for the dough is 1/3 little braid, 2/3 big braid. And, a little egg wash works as your glue.

Cool or what?  If you don’t have a favorite recipe for challah, I like this one from years back: Challah.

The Artist Formerly Known as Lung Bread

A couple of years ago, TD and I happened across this cool looking exotic bread in Whole Foods.  As I remember it (which doesn’t mean it’s true), we asked the baker what it was. She replied that she didn’t know what it was called, she just bakes it.

Intrigued (by the bread, not the baker’s lack of mysterious bread nomenclature), we bought a loaf.  Lobe-shaped and cut allowing for lots of golden salted crust, TD thought it looked like a lung.  So we called it lung bread.

For years.

Until it showed up as the technical challenge on Season 4, Episode 6 of the Great British Baking Show.  Turns out lung bread is actually called Fougasse.

Lung, leaf, potato, pohtahto.

Fougasse is sort of Provence’s version of focaccia.  Slightly flat, with spring and a satisfyingly chewy texture, this lovely loaf is addicting.

Once I knew what it was, I set about trying to make it.  And, if you follow me on Instagram (@TMHostess), you’ve seen my attempts over the last year or so.

My first attempt was Paul Hollywood’s recipe from the Great British Baking Show.  While the result was visually stunning, the texture was all wrong: short crumb, no chew.

On my second attempt I went more the direction of pizza dough.  Again, looked great, wrong texture.

Like Goldilocks (half head of highlights included), I was determined.  And so when I discovered another recipe in the most recent Cook’s Illustrated All-Time Best Baking publication, I chopped up some fresh rosemary and got to work.

The key to good chew, explains the recipe’s author, Andrew Janjigian, is a properly hydrated dough, added flavor from a little whole wheat flour and an overnight fermentation.   Before it rests all night, the bread  goes through a quadruple proof of gentle folds over the course of a couple of hours (according to Janjigian, this method allows the gluten to develop slowly helping to create a light, airy and irregular crumb).

So, was the third time a charm? Oh God yes! This recipe is everything TD and I knew and loved about lung bread: salty, flavorful but mild with that hallmark chew.

Fougasse is not technically difficult, but, it does take some time.  If you have an afternoon (and an evening before to throw together the dough), this is a very enjoyable way to spend it.  As Paul Hollywood advised in the technical challenge, “be patient and remember the shaping.”

No post next week (I’ll be hundreds deep in schweddy balls about this time next Thursday), so Happy Thanksgiving to all!  I’ll see you on the holiday side.

Fougasse

modified slightly from Cooks Illustrated All-Time Best Baking

makes two loaves

Ingredients

  • 1/4 C (1 1/2 ounces) whole-wheat flour
  • 3 C (15 ounces) bread flour
  • 1 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1 tsp rapid-rise yeast
  • 1 1/2 C (12 ounces) water
  • cornmeal or semolina flour
  • 1/4 C extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 TBS fresh rosemary or other desired herbs
  • 2 tsp course sea salt

Directions

  1. Sift whole wheat flour through fine-mesh strainer into bowl of stand mixer.  Add bread flour and yeast to mixer.  Fit stand mixer with dough hook and knead on low speed until cohesive dough forms and no incorporated flour remains (5 minutes).  Add salt and knead (using hook) for 2 more minutes.
  2. Transfer dough to a lightly oiled large bowl.  Cover with plastic wrap and let rest at room temp for 30 minutes.
  3. Holding the edge of the dough with your fingertips, fold dough over itself by gently lifting and folding the edge of the dough toward the center (see pic above).  Turn bowl 45 degrees, fold again.  Turn bowl and fold 6 more times (2 rotations).
  4. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise for 30 minutes.
  5. Repeat folding and rising every 30 minutes 3 more times.  After fourth set of folds, cover bowl tightly with plastic and refrigerate for at least 16 hours and up to 48.
  6. Transfer dough to lightly floured counter.  Stretch gently into an 8 inch round and divide it in half.  Working with 1 piece of dough at a time, gently stretch and fold over 3 side of the dough to create a triangle with 5 inch sides.
  7. Transfer to a lightly floured rimmed baking sheet, seam side down and repeat with remaining piece of dough.  Cover dough loosely with plastic wrap lightly coated with vegetable oil spray and let rest at room temp until Doug is relaxed and no longer cool to the touch (30-60 minutes).
  8. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Put one baking sheet into pre-heating oven.
  9. Transfer 1 piece of dough to lightly floured work surface and, using a rolling pin, gently roll into a triangular shape with an 8-inch base and 10-inch sides, about 1/2 inch thick.  Transfer to a baking-sheet sized piece of parchment liberally dusted with cornmeal or semolina (the sheet can be on the counter or if you have enough, an extra baking sheet).
  10. Using a pizza cutter, make a 6-inch long cut down the center of the triangle leaving about 1 1/2 inches of dough on either end.  Make three 2-3 inch diagonal cuts, leaving a 1-inch boarder on each end of the cuts to create a leaf pattern.
  11. Gently stretch dough toward sides of pan to widen cuts and emphasize the leaf shape (you can add cuts to the edges if you’d like–see photos above).  The overall size of the loaf should measure about 10 X 12 inches.
  12. Cover loosely with plastic wrap coated with oil spray and let rest at room temp until nearly double in size, 30-45 minutes.  Twenty minutes after shaping first loaf, repeat with second half of dough.
  13. Brush the top and sides of the first loaf with 2 TBS olive oil.  Sprinkle loaf with rosemary and salt.
  14. Pull hot baking sheet from oven.  Using the edges of the parchment, carefully lift parchment and shaped dough onto hot baking sheet.
  15. Bake until golden brown, 18-22 minutes, rotating halfway through baking.
  16. Transfer to a wire rack and put hot pan back into the oven to heat for the second loaf.
  17. Allow bread to cool for at least 15 minutes.
  18. Repeat with second loaf.

While the bread will stay fresh for a couple of days, it is my humble opinion that it tastes absolutely the best just cooled from the oven.

Persnickety (but good) chewy chocolate cookies

We’ve talked about Cooks Illustrated before and about how great their recipes are.  And they are great.  Spot on.  Always turn out.

However, after having collected the magazine for years, I can say with confidence that Cooks Illustrated could make pouring a glass of lemonade sound complicated.  And I understand this, because as I’ve openly admitted, I’m the same way.  I like to do things right and sometimes this requires multiple steps.   However, complicated seems too derogatory a term for dear, bow tie wearing Christopher Kimball.  So, I like to think of him and his operation as persnikety.

Case in point, this cookie recipe.  I couldn’t resist taking it for a spin precisely because of how exacting the instructions were.

Dark corn syrup (not light) is whisked together with egg white (no yolk.  Really…no yolk–this helps keep the cookie chewy) and vanilla.

In a separate bowl, flour, leavening agents and good cocoa powder also get a good whisk.

In yet a third bowl, either fitted into a standing mixer or with electric beaters, butter, dark (not golden mind you) brown sugar and granulated sugar are creamed.  Then the corn syrup mixture is blended in followed by the dry ingredients.  And then the whole lot gets chilled in the fridge for 30 minutes.  Nore more.  No less (otherwise you’ll turn into a gremlin if you eat the resulting cookies.  It’s true).

Once the half-an-hour is up, the dough gets parceled out into 16 equal portions (the scale was my little add-on).

Then each ball is rolled in sugar and  plopped onto a couple of parchment-lined baking sheets.  It’s okay, I’m thinking of Pete’s Schweedy balls right now too.

A few minutes in the oven with a little dosado halfway through and you’ve got yourself some pretty fine chocolate cookies.

These went as the Normal Cookies’ dates to a party for a friend who does majorly cool research on Alzheimer’s disease and just got a tenure track position at a majorly awesome institution.  At the party I learned about The Bad Project.  Ah, nerd humor.  My people.

Chewy Chocolate Cookies

Cook’s Illustrated, January 1, 2009

ever so slighted adapted

Ingredients

  • 1/3 C sugar granulated sugar (about 2 1/2 ounces), plus 1/2 cup for coating
  • 1 1/2 C unbleached all-purpose flour (7 1/2 ounces)
  • 3/4 C Dutch-processed cocoa powder
  • 1/2 tsp baking soda
  • 1/4 tsp kosher salt
  • 1/2 C dark corn syrup
  • 1 large egg white
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract
  • 12 TBS (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
  • 1/3 C packed dark brown sugar (about 2 1/2 ounces, see note)
  • 4ounces bittersweet chocolate , chopped into 1/2-inch pieces

Instructions

  1. Adjust oven racks to upper- and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 375 degrees. Line 2 large (18- by 12-inch) baking sheets with parchment paper.  Place ½ cup granulated sugar in shallow baking dish or pie plate.
  2. Whisk flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, and salt together in medium bowl.
  3. Whisk corn syrup, egg white, and vanilla together in small bowl.
  4. In stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment, beat butter, brown sugar, and remaining 1/3 cup granulated sugar at medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Reduce speed to medium-low, add corn syrup mixture, and beat until fully incorporated, about 20 seconds, scraping bowl once with rubber spatula. With mixer running at low speed, add flour mixture and chopped chocolate; mix until just incorporated, about 30 seconds, scraping bowl once. Give dough final stir with rubber spatula to ensure that no pockets of flour remain at bottom.
  5. Chill dough 30 minutes to firm slightly (do not chill longer than 30 minutes).
  6. Divide dough into 16 equal portions; roll between hands into balls about 11/2 inches in diameter. Working in batches, drop 8 dough balls into baking dish with sugar and toss to coat. Set dough balls on prepared baking sheet, spacing about 2 inches apart; repeat with second batch of 8. Bake, reversing position of the baking sheets halfway through baking (from top to bottom and front to back), until cookies are puffed and cracked and edges have begun to set but centers are still soft (cookies will look raw between cracks and seem underdone), 10 to 11 minutes. Do not overbake.
  7. Cool cookies on baking sheet 5 minutes, then use wide metal spatula to transfer cookies to wire rack (just to be a rebel, I used a silicon spatula and not only did it work just fine, I did not turn into a gremlin); cool cookies to room temperature.