Tag: frangipone

Oh Rhubarb!

“Oh rhubarb!” is one of TD’s favorite four-letter-word replacement idioms.  Though, in order for it to have full effect (at least according to TD), it must be exclaimed using a high Ms. Doubtfire falsetto as such: “oooooooh rhuuuubaaaaaarb.”

I haven’t worked with rhubarb very much and even more rarely have I seen it divorced from its almost constant mate, the strawberry.  So, this recipe for rhubarb bars in Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bakery cookbook piqued my interest.

Fair warning–this recipe isn’t a whip together on a weeknight sort of endeavor. Remember those SNL skits where “Martha Stewart” knitted her own dental floss after whittling a toothbrush (quite often topless)?  This recipe is sort of like that.  In fact, about halfway through the process I found myself thinking, ‘what the rhubarb?’

But, if you have some time and are in the right frame of mind, this is a fun recipe.

There are four distinct components to this concoction, beginning with curing the rhubarb.  Here, it is cured in grenadine for at least eight hours.

While the rhubarb cures, the base for the bar, a pate sucree, is pulled together.

Keller recommends using the frasier technique of combining the dough.  This was my first time trying it out, so I hope the experts forgive my simplified explanation.  To fraiser is to combined the ingredients for a dough by smearing them with the palm of your hand.  The dough is then folded and the method repeated until the dough is smooth.  The idea is that the process, much like making a laminated dough, creates a texture that allows the butter to steam while cooking creating a flakey result.

The dough did turn out nicely and whether it was because of the frasier method or any number of other factors,  there was something very satisfying about smearing the dough around with the heel of my hand.  This recipe makes enough for dough rounds of pate sucre.  You will only need one for the bars.

Once the dough is chilled, it is rolled-out into a quarter-sheet (or 9X13) pan.  So that the pastry does not puff-up, it is blind-baked.  Keller recommends using rice.  I prefer beans.

The result is a nice, even base for the bars.

About the time you pop the uncooked dough in the fridge to chill, its also time to make the brown butter filling. This twist on the almond-based  frangipone calls for brown butter, which is kind of fun.  And time consuming.  I’ll let you in on a little secret–I actually made the dough (up to chilling it in the fridge), cured rhubarb and brown butter filling the day before assembling everything to bake.

So, once you have all your components, all that’s left is the building and baking.

The filling recipe was spot-on in terms of rhubarb to almond cream ratio.

The the bars bake until golden brown.  In my opinion, this would be lovely as-is with a hearty dusting of confectioner’s sugar.  Ever the superlative chef, Keller takes it a step further an adds an almond streusel.  I’ve included the recipe below however, next time I make these bars, I’m not going to bother with the fancy accessory.

These would be lovely for a shower (baby or wedding), a tea or any other rites of spring celebrated during rhubarb season.

Soundtrack

I was all over the place during the three days it took to complete these bars.  Highlights include Indigo Girls, Wilco, Jimmy Buffet and the Eagles.

Rhubarb Bars

adapted from Rhubarb Tart, by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel in Bouchon Bakery

note–this is actually four (five if you count browning the butter) recipes assembled into one.  I’ve organized them separately and then provided instructions on how to put everything together at the end.

Cured Rhubarb

Ingredients

  • 15 young rhubarb stalks (about 2 lbs)
  • 1/2 C (100 grams) superfine granulated sugar
  • 1/4 C + 2 TBS (120 grams) grenadine (you can find grenadine in with the mixers in the adult beverages section of the market)

Directions

  1. Trim the rhubarb so that it will fit into a 9X13 inch baking dish lengthwise.
  2. Using a paring knife, pull-off the strings and any tough peel running the length of the rhubarb.
  3. Arrange the rhubarb in the baking dish.  Sprinkle with sugar and drizzle with grenadine.
  4. Cover in plastic wrap and let cure for 24 hours, turning the stalks every 8 hours or so.
  5. When ready to use, allow to drain on paper towels first.

Pate Sucree

note: this makes enough for two tart shells, you will only need one.  Wrap the second tightly in plastic and freeze for up to two months.

Ingredients

  • 2 2/3 C (375 grams) all purpose flour
  • 1/4 C + 3 TBS (46 grams) confectioner’s sugar PLUS
  • 3/4 C + 1 TBS (94 grams) confectioner’s sugar
  • 1/4 C plus 3 TBS almond meal/flour
  • 8 oz (225 grams) unsalted butter at room temp.
  • 1/2 vanilla bean split down the middle
  • 1 extra large egg (56 grams)

Directions

  1. In a medium bowl sift in the flour plus the first 46 grams of confectioner’s sugar.   Sift-in the almond flour, breaking up any lumps in the sieve.  Whisk to combine and set aside.
  2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment (or a hand mixer), add butter and cream on medium until it has the consistency of mayonnaise.  Sift in the remaining confectioner’s sugar and mix on medium low until the mixture if fluffy (about 60 seconds).
  3. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean into the mixture.  Mix on low for 30 seconds to distribute evenly.
  4. Add dry ingredients in two additions, mixing for 15-30 seconds after each and until just combined.  Scrape down the bowl to incorporate any ingredients that have settled on the bottom of the bowl.
  5. Add the eggs and mix on low for 15-30 seconds.
  6. Transfer the dough to a work surface.  Using the heel of your hand, smear the dough and work it together.  Divide the dough in half and form each into a 4X6 inch rectangle about 3/4 inches thick.
  7. Wrap each in plastic wrap and chill until firm (about 2 hours but as always, preferably overnight).

Brown Butter Filling

Ingredients

  • 1/2 C + 3 TBS (75 grams) almond flour/meal
  • 1/2 C + 2 tsp all purpose flour
  • 2 eggs (150 grams)
  • 1 C + 1 TBS (210 grams) superfine granulated sugar
  • 1/4 C + 1 TBS (75 grams) whole milk
  • 1/4 C + 1 TBS (75 grams) heavy cream
  • 3/4 C + 1 TBS (165 grams) brown butter (recipe here)

Directions

  1. Whisk together the almond and all-purpose flours, set aside.
  2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, combine the eggs and sugar and mix on medium for about 2 minutes.
  3. Reduce mixer to low, slowly add the milk and cream.
  4. Add the dry ingredients and mix on low for a few seconds until combined.
  5. With the mixer running, slowly add the brown butter and mix to combine.
  6. Transfer to a pastry bag.

Almond Streusel Topping

Ingredients

  • 3/4 C + 2 TBS (120 grams) all purpose flour
  • 1 C + 1 TBS (120 grams) almond flour
  • 1/2 C + 2 TBS (120 grams) granualted sugar
  • 1/4 tsp kosher salt
  • 4.2 ounces (120 grams) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/4 inch pieces

Directions

  1. Combine the all-purpose and almond flours, sugar and salt in a bowl.  Whisk to break-up lumps.
  2. Add the butter and toss to coat the pieces.  Work the mixture with fingertips breaking the butter into pieces no larger than 1/8 inch and combining it with the flour mixture.
  3. Transfer the streusel to a covered container or resealable plastic bag.  Refrigerate for at least two hours (can be frozen up to 1 month).
  4. Preheat oven to 325 degrees
  5. Spread the streusel in an even layer on a sheet pan.
  6. Bake for about 12 minutes, turning the streusel with a metal spatula every 4 minutes until it is golden brown and dry.
  7. Place pan on cooling rock, allow to cool completely.
  8. Pour the streusel into a food processor and pulse to the consistency of brown sugar.

To Assemble

  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees
  2. Pipe enough of the filling into the crust to cover the bottom with a 1/4 inch-thick-layer and spread it evenly with a small offset spatula.
  3. Arrange the rhubarb, rounded side-up on top of the filling, running lengthwise in the pan.
  4. Pipe the fillings around the stalks, filing in any gaps, then spread any remaining filling over the top of the rhubarb (it may not be completely covered).
  5. Bake for 40 minutes, rotate the pan.
  6. Reduce the oven temp to 325 degrees and bake for an other 10-15 minutes until the filling is set and golden.
  7. Set the pan on a cooling rack and cool completely.

To serve

  • Cut 12 bars or 24 squares and garnish with streusel topping.

The table of terror and other French adventures

Do you mind if we stay in Normandy a bit longer?  What if I offer another version of tarte aux pommes?

As I mentioned last Thursday, TD and I were in France a decade ago.  Sadly, we have yet to return, but that isn’t the point of this post.  Or maybe it is.  You see, TD is a bit of a francophobe.  Despite everything having turned out pretty much okay, he still hasn’t gotten over World War II.  So, the only way I could get him to actually visit France the first time was to include a trip to the Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial. This really was a win-win situation.  He got to stand on what is technically American soil in France and I had an excuse to make sure we spent a couple of nights in Bayeux.

I have to admit, I was not expecting the power or emotion of the monument.  Perhaps it was that we’d just finished watching  HBO’s World War II mini-series Band of Brothers.  Or perhaps it was some strange prescience about what was just around the corner as we  returned from this trip on September 10, 2001.  Either way, the experience left an indelible mark on my reverence for what it means to live in a free democracy.

Even after spending the day at the memorial and in the local historical sights, there was plenty to do and see in the area (and what I mean by plenty is like, we should have spent a couple  more months there).  Bayeux is the home of the Bayeux Tapestry, a seriously long embroidered banner made in the early 9th century depicting some serious European history (hence the serious length).  Now, generally, TD and I are all for museums.  And, we did walk by the  Musee de la Tapisserie de Bayeux several times during our visit.  However, the City itself proved too charming a siren and we spent most of our time wandering around enjoying the outdoor markets and quaint architecture.

And then there was the Table of Terror.

Or at least, that’s what TD saw.

I saw La Table du Terroir.

Terroir is one of those lovely french words that does not have an English translation.  Grossly oversimplified, the word references a variety of geographic, weather and generally excellent karmic conditions that give certain crops their identity.  It is often utilized in conjunction with grape varietals.  And  Halloween.

Though terroir and its meaning is significantly more charming, “terror” stuck and we still talk about our meal at the Table of Terror (which was, of course, the exact opposite).

And that brings me to this week’s recipe: tarte normande.

Like its sweet and elegant sister tarte aux pommes, tarte normade is crowned with a composed array of thinly sliced apples.  However, instead of more apples underneath, the normande version has a beautiful layer of frangipane.  Frangipane is sort of like an almond custard.  It is nutty, but also somehow manages to be both light and rich.  It is incredibly versatile and equally delicious with apples, berries or stone fruit.

Unlike last week’s press-in sweet tart dough, this tarte starts with a more savory rolled-dough.

Since you are only using a single crust, the dough can easily be rolled, carefully transferred into a tart pan and then refrigerated or even frozen (be sure to wrap in plastic) in advance.

While your dough is in the fridge, it’s time to make the frangipone.  Which brings us back (once again) to almond meal.  Make your own or buy it, either way, you’ll need about 2/3 of a cup.

Pulsed together in the food processor, the finished product is sort of like a gritty whipped frosting (well, not finished product, I don’t know if anyone would eat this stuff raw).

The frangipone can also be made in advance and kept in the fridge for a day or two.  Once you are ready to assemble the tart, spread the frangipone evenly in the bottom of the tart.

Then, a nice layer of thinly sliced apples is arrange on top followed by a generous sprinkle of sugar.

Then, bake until toasty.  Your apples will sink-into the tart a little bit.  For this reason, I suggest cramming as many apple slices into your arrangement as you can possibly fit.

Pretty, isn’t it?

The final step is a light brushing of apricot preserves (melted) if you so desire.  You’ll want to let the tart cool before serving so that you can easily remove the tart ring.  However, it would taste pretty amazing slightly warmed with a scoop of vanilla ice cream (or caramel, or chocolate or….) or maybe some scratch whipped cream.  Not that I would admit to it, but this little tart tarte makes an excellent breakfast with a strong cup of black coffee.

Soundtrack

Adele.  Both albums.  One playlist.

Tarte de pommes a la Normande

from www.allrecipes.com

Ingredients

Pastry

  • 1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 pinch salt
  • 1/2 cup butter, softened
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 3 tablespoons cold water, or as needed

Frangipane:

  • 1/2 cup butter, softened
  • 1/2 cup white sugar
  • 1 egg, beaten
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 1 tablespoon apple brandy (I used peach because its what I had)
  • 2/3 cup ground almonds
  • 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

Apples:

  • 4 medium sweet apples – peeled, cored, halved and thinly sliced
  • 1 teaspoon white sugar for decoration
  • 1/4 cup apricot jelly

Directions

  1. In a medium bowl, stir together 1 1/3 cups of flour and salt. Add the butter, 1 egg yolk and water, and stir until the mixture forms large crumbs. If it is too dry to press a handful together, stir in more water. Press the dough into a ball, and wrap in plastic wrap. Flatten slightly, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, or until firm. This part can be done up to three days in advance.
  2. To make the frangipane, cream together the butter and 1/2 cup of sugar in a medium bowl until light and soft. Gradually mix in the egg and the remaining egg yolk one at a time. Stir in the apple brandy. Stir 2 tablespoons of flour into the ground almonds, then mix into the batter. Set aside.
  3. Roll the pastry dough out to about a 12 inch circle on a lightly floured surface. Fold loosely into quarters, and center the point in a 10 inch tart or pie pan. Unfold dough, and press into the bottom and up the sides. Prick with a fork all over, and flute the edges. Return pastry to the refrigerator to chill until firm.
  4. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F (200 degrees C). Place a baking sheet inside the oven while it preheats.
  5. Spoon the frangipane into the chilled pastry, and spread into an even layer. Arrange the apple slices in an overlapping spiral pattern. Each slice should have one edge pressed into the frangipane until it touches the pastry base, and then overlap the previous slice. Start at the outside edge, and work towards the center.
  6. Place the pie plate on top of the baking sheet in the preheated oven. Bake for 15 minutes, or until the filling begins to brown. Reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Bake for another 10 minutes, then sprinkle sugar over the top of the tart. Return to the oven for 10 more minutes, or until the sugar caramelizes slightly.
  7. Cool the tart on a wire rack. A short time before serving, warm the apricot jelly. Add some water if necessary to make it a liquid consistency. Brush onto the tart for a nice shine.